Posts Tagged ‘Conservatory’

SUBSIDENCE – YOUR WORST NIGHTMARE?

Cracks appearing? Floors are “on a slope”? Doors and windows sticking?

Thinking of contacting your Insurers?

Building Insurers Consultant says “it’s nothing bad” but you think…..?…..

Need to know if you are adequately insured?

This subject is one of the most problematic and stressful a home owner could face. PROinspect believe Insurers do not always play fair with home owners and often complete remedial works that do not go far enough to restore the investment value of the customers home – stigma attaches to the home and its value can often suffer, especially in bad markets such as we are experiencing now and perhaps for a few years to come.

PROinspect would quickly state that if you have concerns about your home you do need to get a Professional in if only for initial advice and a tactics meeting before Insurers are notified. Do not place blind trust in an Insurance Company. This recommendation flies in the face of much conventional wisdom but, sadly, it is our experience that some Insurers don’t always play fair and therefore a little pre-knowledge and coaching from us can be worth its weight in gold, in some scenarios. At present, as we come out of summer 2010 we are experiencing a lot of Conservatory movement problems and this seems to be a whole new area of problems in itself.

Subsidence is not always defined in Insurance Policies and so the below comments have been brought together to begin to de-mystify this whole subject.

Before we move on let me outline a real 2010 experience of Insurers —- your home is in one of the worst subsidence districts around (pure highly shrinkable clay and near the top of a hillside with trees all around) – you buy the home on the strength of a Structural Engineers Report “sold” with the house (report 6 months old) that outline past movement that was now stable and no works were needed. As you extend the home 12 months later cracks appear and the same Engineer reports active subsidence. You put an Insurance claim in but the Engineer Loss Adjuster says the movement has ceased and no works are needed. You do not believe the Loss Adjuster and get an further, independent Engineer in who says the movement is active. The damage is monitored over the next 18 months and found to be passive and non-progressive. In the meantime it has been a dry year and within 6 months the cracking starts again. Now, irrespective of all the Engineer opinion, this home is unsaleable. Patently intermittent subsidence is happening because of trees and clay. Underpinning works are needed: the home owner is under a duty to declare the scenario to potential buyers: nobody but a cash purchaser would be able to buy this and they would only do this at a heavily discounted price. This home is now blighted because Insurers cannot see the bigger picture.

REMEMBER – we have the experience and knowledge that could be the difference you are looking for before you commit to a Purchase or an Insurance Claim. If you are considering homes “on our geographic patch in central, southern England, then use the CONTACT FORM now to contact me to “pick my brains”. I may just be able to help you avoid an expensive mistake.

Enjoy……. (NB: PROinspect do not hold with all opinions expressed below – proceed at your own risk) ……….

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What is the difference between “settlement” and “subsidence”?

Settlement usually occurs in new or relatively new buildings. They are very heavy and cause the ground to compact, but this normally stops after a short while. Additionally, most buildings are constructed in a variety of materials, all of which need to settle down and have different shrinkage rates. It is not unusual for a builder’s contract to require them to come back in six months to make good those settlement cracks that have appeared, for instance, between the walls and ceilings. In older buildings of a more flexible construction, cracks can appear in the summer that close up in the winter when the materials absorb moisture. These are known as “summer cracks” and are usually non-serious.

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Taken from The Times On-Line on September 18, 2009

Ten ways to prevent subsidence at home

Don’t panic: follow our ten steps to avoid the cracks

Paula Hawkins

Dealing with cracks

1 A rise in the number of subsidence claims in the South East might not sound positive, but it could indicate an improvement in the property market. As Neil Curling, senior structural claims manager at Halifax Home Insurance, notes: “People don’t tend to notice the minor signs of subsidence until a surveyor looks at a property on behalf of a potential buyer.” Subsidence does not necessarily stop a sale.

Choose your trees

2 Tailor your trees to the size of your garden. “Most subsidence claims are due to shrinking clay soils and this is exaggerated by the moisture demands of tall trees,” says Curling. Willow trees are the worst; plant them at least 40m from your home. Poplars, oaks, horse chestnuts and planes should be planted 20 to 30m away. If you have a small garden, opt for a yew tree or a magnolia.

Renovate carefully

3 The trend towards improving your property rather than moving has put more houses at risk of subsidence. “Many DIY conservatories are being built without sufficiently deep foundations,” says Jill Maclean, technical manager at Lloyds TSB Insurance. The insurer found that 84 per cent of people working on their homes do not have blueprints drawn up, while just a third follow building regulations.

Take care of your drains

4 “Have drains tested regularly for root infestations and leaks,” says Maclean. Nylon sleeves can be used to repair drains without digging up and replacing all the pipes.

Look out for cracks

5 “Check the outside of your property regularly, particularly at this time of year,” Maclean says. Not all cracks in walls indicate subsidence; there are many reasons why they might appear.

“The typical cracks associated with subsidence come from the corners of windows and doors and will go right the way through the wall,” says Curling. “You might also notice that windows don’t open and close easily, and that doors stick and jam.”

Don’t skimp on searches

6 If you are thinking of moving, make sure that the proper searches are carried out. About 15 per cent of subsidence claims are due to previous mining activity beneath a building. Poor drainage is another culprit, so it may be worth having a survey carried out of the drainage.

Age is not all

7 Do not assume that just because a property is old it is more likely to suffer. “Older properties have shallower foundations, which does make them more vulnerable to subsidence, but they are generally built of bricks in soft lime mortar which makes them more flexible,” Curling explains.

Act fast

8 Speed is of the essence. If you notice a problem, act immediately. “The first thing you should do is to notify your insurance company,” Curling says. “Subsidence is quite a narrow sphere of surveyors’ expertise, and insurers will have specialists in this field.

Don’t panic

9 Many subsidence problems can be tackled without serious disruption. “The removal of trees is often the best solution, although this may not be possible if you live in a conservation area or if there is a tree preservation order,” says Curling. Cutting back trees may also help — although this must be done carefully and professionally, since pruning trees may also stimulate growth. “Where the ground has been very badly affected, there may be a need to underpin the house,” adds Curling. “But while this used to be massively disruptive and expensive, it is now much faster and cheaper.”

Causes

A. The most common causes of subsidence are as follows:

1. Settlement of old mine workings, often at great depth, resulting in damage to structures on the surface. These may often be a long way from the cause of the damage. Access shafts are notoriously difficult to identify as mine operators rarely kept good records of these points.

2. Damage to subsoils caused by water flowing through them. This may be from naturally occurring ground water or leaking drains and water mains. When a drain begins to leak it can soften or wash away the body of a soil and create weakness. This can result in the weight of any nearby structures causing the soil to crush, allowing the building to subside.

3. Long term consolidation of fill.

4. Decomposition and degradation of soils that contain a large organic content. Peat soils are made up of vegetable matter laid down by historic forests. When these materials are below the water table in the ground they remain relatively stable for hundreds of years. If, for any reason, the water table should become lower then the soils will be prone to drying-out or biodegrading – either of which will result in a reduction in its volume. This will cause any buildings supported by the soils to settle and crack.

5. Instability of uneven ground. When soils rest at an angle to the horizontal they can sometimes become unstable and begin to slip. This is typical of coastal cliffs and most people are aware of the type of dramatic collapses that appear on the news from time to time. In a lesser way this can happen on naturally occurring slopes and in areas where a man-made excavation has created large differences in ground levels. This may be a large excavation for a tall building or open earthworks for a major road scheme. This type of movement is both difficult and expensive to deal with.

6. Shrinkage of clay soils. Clay is a natural soil created in historic rivers by the deposition of tiny rock particles. In Great Britain and Northern Europe clays occur with an amount of water dispersed within their matrix.. Being highly impermeable to the passage of water, clays will resist the tendency to dry out and will normally maintain a consistent moisture content over many decades. If a clay dries out it can shrink. Upon rewetting it expands. This results in seasonal shrinkage and swelling which can cause cracking of nearby buildings. Tree roots spread out in search of water. Clay soils are a ready source of water that a tree can remove by suction. When trees grow in shrinkable clay soils they locally dry out the soils and can often cause subsidence if they affect the soils beneath the footings. Alternatively, if a well established tree should die then the ground in which its roots are dispersed will no longer be subject to the long term drying-out effect and as a result will begin to take up moisture from surrounding soils and from the atmosphere. This in turn will result in swelling of the soil and this is known as heave. In many respects, heave is capable of producing greater damage to a building than its counterpart, subsidence.

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Taken from www.abi.org.uk/Information/40471.doc

Subsidence –

Dealing With The Problem

It is the sight every homeowner dreads – cracks appearing in the walls of their home. But don’t fear the worst – while there has been an increase in subsidence claims in recent years, most buildings suffer minor cracking at some time so it doesn΄t mean that there is a subsidence problem.

This information sheet explains:

* What subsidence is and how it can affect a property;

* What signs may indicate there could be a problem with the property;

* What can be done to reduce the risk of subsidence; and

* How household insurers will investigate potential problems and deal with any claim.

What is subsidence?

Subsidence is the downward movement of the ground supporting the building. Particular problems arise when the movement varies from one part of the building to another.

It can be caused by:

Certain soils – Clay soils are particularly vulnerable to subsidence since they shrink and swell depending on their moisture content.

Vegetation – Trees and shrubs take moisture from soils causing them to shrink.  This is especially so during long periods of dry weather as roots extend in search of water.

Leaking Drains – Damaged drains can soften or wash away the ground beneath the foundations.

Less commonly, problems may occur where properties are built over, or close to, mine workings.

Other types of ground movement, which can result in cracking and structural damage, are:

Heave – the upward movement of the ground supporting the building.

Landslip – movement of ground down a slope.

What should you look out for?

The first obvious sign of subsidence is the appearance of cracks. However, not all cracks indicate that there is a problem. Most buildings experience cracking at some time and there is no need to be alarmed by every crack that appears.

Cracks are not uncommon in new properties and newly built extensions. They are likely to be the result of the building settling under its own weight. These usually are nothing to worry about, nor are fine cracks that often appear in newly plastered walls as they dry out. Buildings shrink and swell naturally due to changes in temperature and humidity, which can lead to minor cracks where walls and ceilings meet. These too should not normally be anything to worry about.

What should be looked out for are small, usually diagonal, cracks which suddenly appear in plaster work inside and outside bricks at weak points, such as around doors and windows, especially after long periods of dry weather. These may, but not necessarily, indicate movement in the building´s foundations. The cracks will normally be thicker than a 10p coin, and usually be wider at the top. Doors and windows may also “stick” due to the distortion of the building.

Can you do anything to reduce the risk?

Yes. Taking a few simple precautions can help reduce the risk of structural damage.

Trees and shrubs planted too close to a property are a common cause of problems. The attached table indicates the suitable planting distances of various trees from houses, garages or outbuildings. You should also consider the proximity of trees to underground drains and buildings including any belonging to neighbours.

Ensure that trees and shrubs are pruned regularly. Expert advice should be sought from an arborist to make sure they are pruned correctly. Regular general maintenance checks should be carried out around a property. Checks should be made for blocked or leaking drains; dirt and leaves cleared from gutters; and pipes checked to make sure there are no splits.

Cover provided by household insurance

A buildings insurance policy will normally cover damage caused to a property by subsidence, heave or landslip. Damage to walls, gates, fences, patios, drives and swimming pools will not usually be covered unless a home is damaged at the same time and by the same cause. The policy should set out what is and what is not covered. However, if any clarification is required, an agent or the insurer will be happy to help.

Policyholders will normally have to pay the first part of any claim – the excess. This will be detailed in your policy.

If the damage is so serious that a home cannot be lived in, most buildings, and even contents, policies will pay for the cost of comparable alternative accommodation, while the damage is being investigated and the repair work is carried out. This will be subject to a limit which is usually a percentage of the sum insured.

When should you contact your buildings insurer and what will they do?

As soon as you believe there may be a problem, you should contact your buildings insurer. A policy will normally require the insurer to be advised of any potential claim as soon as possible and, in any event, it is sensible because the sooner the problem is investigated, the quicker everything can be put right the less inconvenience will be caused.

It will first be necessary to identify the cause of the damage and what needs to be done to stop it. Once any movement has been stabilised the necessary repairs can be carried out.

Insurers really do understand and appreciate policyholders΄ concerns and will do all they can to minimise the worry and inconvenience. Insurers will also keep policyholders informed of developments at every stage.

Handling a claim

Once they are aware of the damage, the insurer may arrange for a structural engineer and other specialists to carry out detailed investigations to decide the best course of action. These experts will report back to the insurer with their recommendations and then supervise any work that needs to be done.

Alternatively, the insurer may advise the policyholder to contact a structural engineer (it may be able to provide a list of recommended firms) so that the problem can be investigated. Once again, the insurer should then know the cause of the problem and how best to deal with it.

Investigations may include digging holes to find out the type of soil, the depth and condition of the foundation and whether roots are causing a problem – this is quite normal.

It may also be necessary to monitor the width of cracks or other signs of movements over a period of time, usually for at least twelve months, so that the extent of the problem can be accurately established. Once all the information has been collected and analysed, then a plan of action can be drawn up to cure the problem.

Today, very few cases of subsidence are likely to require under-pinning – the strengthening or deepening of building foundations. Generally, further damage can be prevented by the professional removal or pruning of trees, repairing drains, or by localised repairs to brickwork. Then internal decorations will be renewed to complete the job.

If a property has suffered coal mining subsidence damage, the Coal Authority or mine owner mining in the area will be responsible for dealing with any claim. If a problem arises contact should be made with the Coal Authority (01623 427162) – as they will be able to provide information regarding the procedure involved. At the same time, the buildings insurer should also be informed.

What happens if you change your insurer?

If you change your buildings insurer and then discover a subsidence related problem, any claim may be dealt with under the Association of British Insurers΄ Domestic Subsidence Claim Handling Agreement. The agreement sets out which insurers will be responsible for handling any claim. The majority of household insurers subscribe to it. If a claim is made within the first eight weeks of the changeover, the previous insurer will deal with it. Claims between 8 weeks and 1 year will be handled by the new insurer with the cost of settlement shared equally between the two insurers.

Any claims made a year after the changeover means that the new insurer alone will deal with the claim.

Things to remember

If cracks suddenly appear, it does not necessarily mean there is a major problem.

Careful attention should be paid to the type, size and distance of any trees and shrubs from a property

While buildings insurance covers damage caused by subsidence, heave or landslip, there will normally be an excess which the policyholder will have to pay – you should check your policy to see what excess you have.

You should contact the buildings insurer as soon as you believe there is a problem. They are there to give help and guidance.

If you change insurer and a problem arises, there is an ABI Agreement that sets out which insurer will deal with the claim.

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Recommended additional reading:-

Essential reading from the FINANCIAL OMBUDSMAN Service about DISPUTES involving SUBSIDENCE = http://www.financial-ombudsman.org.uk/publications/ombudsman-news/59/59-insurance.htm

Excellent free SUBSIDENCE PDF brochure from the R.I.C.S. = http://www.rics.org/site/scripts/download_info.aspx?downloadID=177&fileID=181

Trouble with new Insurance on your purchase? Check Endsleigh IQ via Woodstock Insurance Brokers for those problem cases = http://www.endsleigh.co.uk/home/Pages/subsidence-property-insurance.aspx

Technical article via Tulane University (Prof. Stephen A. Nelson) that includes explanations of multiple causes, detailed diagrams within a “Natural Disasters” series = http://www.tulane.edu/~sanelson/geol204/subsidence.htm

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1- Do I need a Surveyor?

BUYING – Chances are that the home you are buying is OK. What if it isn’t? Do you carry the risk? Would the value of the house be lower with significant defects? We would be insured against serious matters, wouldn’t we?

Is the message becoming clear? Why accept risk when you don’t have to? Any defect, minor or serious, is not an insurable peril if it existed when you bought your home (Insurers call these matters “pre-existing-defects”).

Also remember – don’t be fooled into thinking that just because your Loan Company have advanced a large sum means that the premises are free of defects. A Valuation Report IS NOT A SURVEY and in an increasing number of cases such Valuations are produced without inspecting the premises.

So – do you need a Surveyor? The answer is a resounding YES, you do.

SELLING – Increasingly the wise home owner, but only those who can afford this benefit as it is not essential, is choosing to commission a Seller Survey. This is something new but it can be relied upon by Loan Companies and Purchasers (either could sue the Surveyor even though the report was commissioned and paid for by the seller).

Why would a Seller want such a survey? To prove there is nothing wrong or to say, yes we do have condition issues but the report quantifies them and are Asking Price has been set accordingly (thus limiting the negotiation time and angles that otherwise cut in later in the disposal transaction period).

IMPROVING – Thinking of having Conservatory or new windows or a loft conversion? STOP and THINK.

Will that money actually add value to your home? Not all improvements add value. Do you need a Valuers opinion?

If you have just had such works completed do you realise that you may have forgotten something else? You have just created additional costs should your home have to be rebuilt for whatever reason. Did you increase the sum of money that represents the ceiling sum within your Buildings Insurance policy? Do you know how to calculate the rebuild cost of your home?

Surveyors/Valuers are needed at almost any stage of any project to do with housing.

QU – What factors combine to increase the risk of defects at residential properties?

ANS – Age: certain forms of construction: the degree of DIY completed: the type of sub-soil the home is built on (clays being the worst): is the home under threat from flooding?: lack of past maintenance: certain ages of home have certain defects “built in”: the quality of alterations and extensions: weather exposure: the list be long………..

QU – I can do what a Surveyor does; it’s easy. Why bother with using a Surveyor?

ANS – Our standard answer revolves around – anyone can see if the paintwork is peeling, if the roof has a hole in it, if the walls are cracked or not, etc…. But, consider this …… could you recognise the difference between subsidence, settlement and heave? …… could you recognise the difference between wet rot and dry rot and know the implications of that distinction? …… if the roof contours were straight could you still recognise when a roof frame is under serious stress? …… could you diagnose cavity-wall-tie-corrosion problems? …… before you went to the house would you know if it was in a district that suffers from defects such as Mundic, Radon Gas, Black Ash, Subsidence, Flooding and other serious problems?

2-         When do I need a Surveyor?

This is a more tricky question.

Sometimes it all depends on cost – if you are buying a Leasehold home/flat the legal and other researches needed are much more costly in which case it can make sense to commission all those matters first and leave the survey until later in the transaction.

However, in most cases it is wise the consider appointing a private surveyor as soon as possible after having your bid approved by the seller.

Private surveys will focus on the negative about the property and discuss the defects and their effect on saleability and value. Are these matters you would necessarily want your Loan Company to know about? Why then would you consider using the Loan Valuer for a simultaneous private survey? It just doesn’t make any sense.

Always commission a separate Loan Valuation and Private Survey.

In some cases the Loan Company Valuation report or researches will state that signs of a defect were noted or that the home is at high risk of ………… In these cases we would suggest you contact PROinspect immediate and talk through your worries. It is possible we can give you the re-assurance you need to move forward; if we cannot then we should be able to suggest a Survey Product designed to provide exactly what you want OR refer you to another professional who will be able to help you specifically.

Don’t forget your Surveyor after you have moved in. Many times during your occupation you may need a chat before you commit to a course of action that if you get it wrong may later rebound to haunt you —

• I live in an exposed coastal position. Is cavity wall insulation a good idea?
• Will converting the garage into a dining room add value to the home?
• After the snow of New Year 2010 I noticed a bow to my main roof – can you check it out?
• We had XXXXX works completed but are not happy with some elements of the finish and need your opinion?
• We are getting mould and condensation. Can you help us?
• We have had an extension done and now need to increase our Home Insurance to reflect that work. Can you calculate the right sum for us?

And finally…. when you come to selling your home you nowadays have the option to commission a Sellers Survey to prove your homes’ condition. Any buyer can rely on that report and either seller or buyer could sue us if we have got something seriously wrong. In England we are not used to such a Survey Product but in the difficult times we now live in this is something that should be at least considered before you instruct an Estate Agent.

3 – What Survey Product will I need?

1, 2 or 3 or something else?

First of all do completely forget what any other professional adviser has mentioned to you. How many times have we heard customers tell us what “the man in the pub” told them they should ask for.

If you need property advice about surveys who is the right person to take a brief from? Your Solicitor? The Estate Agent? Your Neighbour? NO – tell the Surveyor what your needs are and he/she will recommend the right product that will deliver the re-assurance you need to move forward.

In industry jargon there are only three basic types of property inspection – the higher the number the higher the complexity, fee cost,

• LEVEL 1 Any brief inspection that is not a survey. All Valuations are at this level.
• LEVEL 2 Defined/Limited/Economy surveys or inspections. The most popular forms of Home Surveys are at this level. Included here are Specific Defect Surveys and diagnostic viewings.
• LEVEL 3 These inspections carry the higher fee costs, the surveyor accepts much higher levels of liability to you, the survey products are in much greater details, extras can be added to tailor the final product to your exact needs and budget. Building Surveys and Expert Witness Reports fall into this category.

Level 2 Reports are by far the most popular in the UK and the one Report Product that is head-and-Shoulders above the rest is the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors Homebuyer Report (the HBR). It becomes highly important that potential customers discuss their needs direct with a Surveyor BEFORE they issue an instruction. This ensures that the Survey Product obtained is both relevant and focussed to that clients need and budget.

To list a few Level 2 products will make our meaning clearer:-

1. Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors Homebuyer Report (the HBR).
2. SAVA Home Condition Report
3. SAVA Home Condition Survey
4. PROinspect Landlords Property Report
5. Thermal Imaging diagnostic reports for leakages and condensation
6. Schedule of Condition (usually with a high element of photography)
7. Schedule of Dilapidation.
8. Specific Defect Report.
9. Pre section 35 (CPR) Expert Witness Report.
10. Boundary and/or Contractor dispute opinion Report.

NEED ADVICE?

Try the SEARCH Box facility (below, left), click on an Article Heading (below, left) or simply read on….

• BUILDING SURVEYS with or without VALUATION advice
• HOME VALUATIONS by an RICS Registered Valuer
  
• HOMEBUYER REPORTS or SELLER SURVEYS
• AUCTION or QUICK-WALK-THROUGH Appraisals
  
• Update your BUILDING INSURANCE SUM INSURED
• Is DAMP REALLY DAMP or actually CONDENSATION as a result of your lifestyle?
• Is that CRACK the beginnings of SUBSIDENCE?
• Divorce or Negligence Court-Compliant EXPERT WITNESS Reports/Valuations.

Hello, I’m Stuart Parrett. I am a truly independent, knowledgeable and experienced Chartered Surveyor and housing specialist. I am in the PEOPLE and HOMES Business where Information Discovery is all important.

I survey homes for faults and worth/value but it is not what I do but HOW that separates PROinspect from competitor surveyors.

THE HOUSE DOCTOR IS IN:

HOW CAN I HELP YOU?

SOMETHING of VALUE for you —-

1-  Do you have a SEPTIC TANK DRAINAGE system?

NEW Environmental Permitting Regulations cover even old septic tanks, which may previously have escaped regulation, but are now controlled and must be formally registered with the Environment Agency by 1^st January 2012. Failure to register is a criminal offense. Click this link PrivateDrainageChanges2012 for an Environment Agency Brochure that explains all.

2-  CONDENSATION SEASON IS UPON US – have you looked in the back of the wardrobe recently or in “that corner”?

Cold = drop in dew point = cold surfaces will attract condensate: Quick Fix – create airflows and reduce the amount of vapour in the air. Longer Term Fix = Raise the wall temperature by lining it with XXXX; properly kill off mould spores; introduce sensors that apply venting or temperature changes to the environment. Simple.

What often works is opening the window for as long as possible during and after sleeping/baths/showers/cooking (this removes water vapour that then cannot condense on your clothes and walls). You loose heat during this process and so you need to learn how to achieve these goals intelligently without icicles forming on your nose.

For more information on me, my CV etc… – click here and scroll down. Alternatively, look me in the eye by watching a short VIDEO – CLICK HERE. TheHouseSurveyor at YouTube will also deliver several important messages for those looking to purchase or those you wish to become Residential Surveyors and/or Valuers.

Those who have kindly provided testimonials for me say that I can be considered a safe pair of hands, somebody who is a real communicator and a provider of detailed and robust opinions.

Good reasons for using me in the central south coast area include that I take the time to listen to you and then help you make the right choice of survey product and have it completed at the right time. After this I genuinely communicate with you and don’t simply mail a report to you and that is it. No, I am always available for questions and meetings because you need to be re-assured your purchase is both a wise investment and you are not buying a problem.

I protect the biggest investment you’ll ever make in your life – your home – and I work with you every step of the way…..

I’ve brought together a lot of valuable information to help you organise property problems, alterations, private surveys and other services surrounding ownership, maintenance, sales, purchases and Expert Witness Reports.

CALL ME for a free chat and advice on 078 3636 3040 —

• THE GOLDEN RULES OF SELF-PROTECTION DURING HOME BUYING =

1. When your “offer” has been accepted make sure you already have a loan deal secured in principle
2. Make sure you DO NOT agree to a combined Loan Valuation and Private Survey
3. Actually speak to a Surveyor (PROinspect down south) – do not accept an Assistant or a Secretary
4. Find out your Survey Product options, fee costs and the manner in dealing with any special concerns you have
5. Do not fall for quick deals or “linked” services often packaged by costly middlemen Agencies.

STUART PARRETT

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Browse the site and when you’re ready to ask for advice give me a call or fill in the Form on the right. To get the best out of us you need to be briefed as to your options, survey costs and a lot more. As a starting point be as specific as you can as to what you need from us – use the CONTACT FORM (top right on your screen): EG: Detached house – perhaps 50 years old – £400,000 agreed – Building Survey with Valuation needed – being sold by XXX Estate Agents.

PROinspect are led by Stuart Parrett who has an unrivalled pedigree as a specialist Home Surveyor of over 35 years Hampshire experience.

If you wish to read even more of my views on a host of house and survey matters go to ezinearticles.com by clicking of the above icon. Or follow me at Twitter (@SurveyAuthority).