Posts Tagged ‘Proinspect’

I will be brief:

Please study this web-site: I am a heavyweight Residential Property professional and I need help NOW. Can you help me?

My contacts and web-site generate a large number of requests for help. Often this is for free advice but I do not mind as the goodwill generated is massive and such people often then recommend me to others who do become clients of the fee earning type.

This volume of referrals means that have need a National Network of similar Surveyor/Valuers. Members of experience and professionalism who have very higher standards of customer care.

I am looking to one or two Surveyor/Valuers in each County and perhaps several in London and the bigger Cities.

Fairly minor start-up costs will be required (to be agreed, to agree service level standards and uniform documentation etc…) and then PROinspect would take a commission for anything you can take on (it would be your choice).

At this early stage I have no further written details.

If I am striking a cord with you and you can see the sense in what this opportunity offers then e-mail me in the first instance and I wil then call you to discuss.

Typical tasks would include —–

1. Seller and Purchaser Surveys
2. Market Valuations
3. Divorce Valuations
4. Specific Defect Reports
5. Expert Witness Reports
6. General Consultancy Services.

E-mail me at stuart@proinspect.co.uk

Commenting on PROinspect Consultancy, and Stuart Parrett in particular, Dominic Beeton stated —-

On the professional side of things, I would strongly recommendStuart Parrett of ProInspect. Stuart runs a firm from Bishops Waltham. Check his web site here He is a residential surveyor who has a fervent passion for surveying and wants to share that passion with the world.  His web site is crammed full of useful articles.  If you need a surveyor who will produce a comprehensive survey report using the latest technology including thermal imaging, Stuart is your man.  He is also a really nice chap.

RL kindly sent (Oct 2010) the following to me after I advised her on her purchase —

I recently moved into my new home near Fareham after deciding to leave Surrey and settle near to the sea. After months of searching I found a house that suited my needs. The house was only 12 years old and I knew there were no serious problems but still wanted to ensure that I wasn’t buying myself a heap of problems.

I approached Stuart at PROinspect and asked if he could check the house over for me and report back verbally – I didn’t need a lengthy written report, just some reassurance and advice. I couldn’t have found anyone better to provide what I required, and more.

Stuart carried out the survey promptly and reported back to me as requested. He checked things I would never have expected, nor indeed have encountered on previous surveys. He reassured me not just about the house but also about the local environment, advising on the degree of seriousness and related appropriate action needed should I go ahead with the purchase.

All the advice and information was clear and precise and on the basis of Stuart’s assessment I was able to buy with confidence and am happily settled in my new home.

I really appreciated Stuart’s friendly manner and down-to-earth approach and felt totally confident that I was in safe hands.

I would not hesitate to recommend PROinspect to anybody requiring a survey or inspection on a residential property for whatever reason. Stuart has a wealth of knowledge and experience and is a pleasure to deal with.

RL

Dampness is caused by many factors and it is oft quoted that Surveyors mis-diagnose the causes of dampness. Personally I do not believe this but what I am convinced is true is that a home owners tend to either ignore damp and mould, a strange and self-defeating stance, or become paranoid and seek to completely eliminate all traces of moisture (which is not always a wise thing to do).

Nothing could be worse than ignoring the problems because they usually get worse. Our second reaction is often to get a specialist Damp Proofing contractor involved. Although this can be correct and proper it is my experience such salespersons often sell a solution that is not needed, and which costs you a small fortune. That solution usually means chemicals will be injected into the house walls and in this eco-world this cannot always be correct. Fortunately there are some Damp Specialists who do give good advice – we know who they are are work with them for mutual gain and to your benefit.

It is all subject to scale and degree but the wisest course of action is usually to get your local Chartered Surveyor in to inspect and advise you. I can be accused of profiteering here but I reject I am biased. Dampness can be caused by so many differing factors that a true analysis is absolutely essential to ensure the solution is sustainable. Where does damp occur, why and does a repair need to be completed?

The best way of preventing damp is to design an adequate barrier and to install it effectively during construction of the building. Otherwise a retrofitted system must be considered and such systems are often disruptive and costly.

Also one must consider a further serious problem in the industry of damp diagnosis – often the cause of the dampness problem is mis-diagnosed and this can lead to much unnecessary expense or, even worse, duplicated costs over a period of years as a second solution is then tried.

Condensation is often the actual problem and this can be associated with a lifestyle problem rather than a building defect: indeed, it is my experience that the large majority of dampness that as been rectified by chemical injection systems (see below) are, in fact, a combination of inadequate insulation and a lifestyle issue revolving around your own actions and methods of living in that particular building.

On top of these issues is the danger that historically the observed dampness may have brought with it minerals from the ground. These can migrate up and into wall-base plaster in your lower rooms. This contaminated plaster usually needs to be removed (but not always) and the affected rooms then replastered at high cost and disruption. The dampness may have also started the process of joinery or floor decay that may not manifest until many months later and so it usually pays to expose and lift floorboards before any works are specified – hense my assertion that it usually pays to get an experienced Home Surveyor to check out the home before works are started.

The Dampness Diagnosis Industry is one that is driven by a Free Surveys by the Company competing for retrofit remedial work. Often conflicts of interest result in misdiagnosis and all for the sake of home buyers or owners saving a few pounds by not calling for paid opinion from a local, independent Chartered Surveyor.

So, what are the main types of remedial system if an actual rising damp issue has been correctly diagnosed? Here is a basic list —

Chemical retrofit injection systems: these place chemicals within a wall such that the micro-porous structure of the masonry cannot take in moisture and this solidity prevents capillary attraction and so damp cannot rise into your home. Small holes are drilled into wall bases (usually outside but an interior system can be designed in some cases) and a chemical solution is then systematically injected into masonry until saturation point is reached.

Electro-osmosis: if a small electrical current (equivalent to that used by a doorbell) is passed through a wall it affects the rate of potential capillary attraction that causes water to rise in a wall (like a tree sucking water out the ground). This system typically has a Control Unit (an adaptive power source), Anodes drilled and set into the outside wall-bases plus, finally, an Earth Rod. These are provided externally and are effective if the circuit(s) is not broken or the power supply interrupted.

Physical = the introduction of a new barrier such as bitumen felt, plastic (polypropylene, EPDM or re-cycled), dense (engineering grade) brick course & mortar, lead or natural slate. Any physical barrier will need to be linked to any flooring membrane and be at least 150mm above outside ground levels. The precise position of the barrier must also ensure that embedded, suspended floor joists ends are protected from damp and resultant decay.

Schrijver System: (a proprietary brand product used as an example to identify any such system – a specialist physical system) = this relies upon inserted special devices placed inside a wall (inserted from the outside by a drilling process) that create cold spots to which water is drawn. That moisture is then collected and drained away safely.

Palliative measures – in essence these work on the principal that the damp is not the problem; instead you tackle and neutralise the effects of dampness rather than prevent the source(s) of damp (provided no serious consequence results from such proposals) — 1. Create a new inner skin with damp-membrane and insulant but with a vented space between damp old and stud new inner walls. Possibly complete this work in tandem with outside land drainage works. 2. Changes in occupants’ lifestyle patterns. 3. Provide better insulation and/or improve heating and venting of the building environment (or simply improve the control of such factors).

Arguments exist for each type of theory of repair, or action to combat dampness and its effects (mould, decay, health problems….). Factors to decide the best solution for you may include:—

• The robustness of the correct diagnosis of damp. This factor cannot be overplayed in importance as the large majority of dampness cases are initially mis-diagnosed by Surveyors.

• Whether the degree of damp warrants any actions at all.

• How green you require your repair solution to be.

• The effectiveness and longevity of the various types of solution.

• The costs, direct and indirect, of your preferred repair solution.

• Whether guarantees are issued, and upon what terms (such as being Insurance backed?).

• Whether it is wise to repair damp at all – eg: Cob walled buildings must be damp to remain structurally safe: eg: flint walls cannot be injected: eg: usually slim wall forms of Period Buildings need to breath and this precludes most remedial work methods.

• The peripherals such as the degree of Repair Company expertise required, whether Building Control Approval is need, length of time needed to complete the repairs, what conditions are placed on each repair method, any adverse effect on saleability or mortgageability of each type of repair system, etc……

• Sometimes remedial works might effect an adjoining structure and so the cooperation (sometimes mandatory under the Party Wall Act) of the adjoining property owner is needed before anything can be done.

In seems that the Industry has lapsed into saying the solution is a chemical injection remedial treatment, now what is the problem? Until we can get a little more sophisticated we will continue to complete unnecessary works and/or use chemicals when often we shouldn’t.

The crux of the matter often revolves around two factors (1) whether wall plaster needs to be removed and replaced as this greatly increases costs and length of contract, plus (2) are you prepared to accept that the way you live within the dwelling has caused the damp and mould and you may have to make lifestyle changes: (the latter scenario is real and it is my experience occupiers often will not believe the problem is self-inflicted. This plays into the hands of the rogue specialist damp companies).

It really is quite simple – as every home and method of occupation are so variable no one-solution-fits-all exists and therefore you need good quality advice. So, will you take advice from an impartial Chartered Surveyor or rely upon Bob the Builder or a company salesperson from a Dampness Contractor? The choice is yours.

Simple question – how many different roof types are there?

Pitched roofs

Flat roofs.

Garden roofs.

Green roofs.

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I refer to the outer roof covering only.

We all know about natural slates, concrete tiles, flat felt clad roofing (mineral felt), lead roofing and even glass roofing. But can you prepare a definitive list? Are you up for a challenge? How many could you list.

I would suggest you define your listing into PITCHED, FLAT and OTHER for the sake of simplicity. No more than five word definitions per single roof enter please.

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Good luck.

Stuart Parrett CEO PROinspect Consultancy England, UK.

SUBSIDENCE – YOUR WORST NIGHTMARE?

Cracks appearing? Floors are “on a slope”? Doors and windows sticking?

Thinking of contacting your Insurers?

Building Insurers Consultant says “it’s nothing bad” but you think…..?…..

Need to know if you are adequately insured?

This subject is one of the most problematic and stressful a home owner could face. PROinspect believe Insurers do not always play fair with home owners and often complete remedial works that do not go far enough to restore the investment value of the customers home – stigma attaches to the home and its value can often suffer, especially in bad markets such as we are experiencing now and perhaps for a few years to come.

PROinspect would quickly state that if you have concerns about your home you do need to get a Professional in if only for initial advice and a tactics meeting before Insurers are notified. Do not place blind trust in an Insurance Company. This recommendation flies in the face of much conventional wisdom but, sadly, it is our experience that some Insurers don’t always play fair and therefore a little pre-knowledge and coaching from us can be worth its weight in gold, in some scenarios. At present, as we come out of summer 2010 we are experiencing a lot of Conservatory movement problems and this seems to be a whole new area of problems in itself.

Subsidence is not always defined in Insurance Policies and so the below comments have been brought together to begin to de-mystify this whole subject.

Before we move on let me outline a real 2010 experience of Insurers —- your home is in one of the worst subsidence districts around (pure highly shrinkable clay and near the top of a hillside with trees all around) – you buy the home on the strength of a Structural Engineers Report “sold” with the house (report 6 months old) that outline past movement that was now stable and no works were needed. As you extend the home 12 months later cracks appear and the same Engineer reports active subsidence. You put an Insurance claim in but the Engineer Loss Adjuster says the movement has ceased and no works are needed. You do not believe the Loss Adjuster and get an further, independent Engineer in who says the movement is active. The damage is monitored over the next 18 months and found to be passive and non-progressive. In the meantime it has been a dry year and within 6 months the cracking starts again. Now, irrespective of all the Engineer opinion, this home is unsaleable. Patently intermittent subsidence is happening because of trees and clay. Underpinning works are needed: the home owner is under a duty to declare the scenario to potential buyers: nobody but a cash purchaser would be able to buy this and they would only do this at a heavily discounted price. This home is now blighted because Insurers cannot see the bigger picture.

REMEMBER – we have the experience and knowledge that could be the difference you are looking for before you commit to a Purchase or an Insurance Claim. If you are considering homes “on our geographic patch in central, southern England, then use the CONTACT FORM now to contact me to “pick my brains”. I may just be able to help you avoid an expensive mistake.

Enjoy……. (NB: PROinspect do not hold with all opinions expressed below – proceed at your own risk) ……….

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What is the difference between “settlement” and “subsidence”?

Settlement usually occurs in new or relatively new buildings. They are very heavy and cause the ground to compact, but this normally stops after a short while. Additionally, most buildings are constructed in a variety of materials, all of which need to settle down and have different shrinkage rates. It is not unusual for a builder’s contract to require them to come back in six months to make good those settlement cracks that have appeared, for instance, between the walls and ceilings. In older buildings of a more flexible construction, cracks can appear in the summer that close up in the winter when the materials absorb moisture. These are known as “summer cracks” and are usually non-serious.

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Taken from The Times On-Line on September 18, 2009

Ten ways to prevent subsidence at home

Don’t panic: follow our ten steps to avoid the cracks

Paula Hawkins

Dealing with cracks

1 A rise in the number of subsidence claims in the South East might not sound positive, but it could indicate an improvement in the property market. As Neil Curling, senior structural claims manager at Halifax Home Insurance, notes: “People don’t tend to notice the minor signs of subsidence until a surveyor looks at a property on behalf of a potential buyer.” Subsidence does not necessarily stop a sale.

Choose your trees

2 Tailor your trees to the size of your garden. “Most subsidence claims are due to shrinking clay soils and this is exaggerated by the moisture demands of tall trees,” says Curling. Willow trees are the worst; plant them at least 40m from your home. Poplars, oaks, horse chestnuts and planes should be planted 20 to 30m away. If you have a small garden, opt for a yew tree or a magnolia.

Renovate carefully

3 The trend towards improving your property rather than moving has put more houses at risk of subsidence. “Many DIY conservatories are being built without sufficiently deep foundations,” says Jill Maclean, technical manager at Lloyds TSB Insurance. The insurer found that 84 per cent of people working on their homes do not have blueprints drawn up, while just a third follow building regulations.

Take care of your drains

4 “Have drains tested regularly for root infestations and leaks,” says Maclean. Nylon sleeves can be used to repair drains without digging up and replacing all the pipes.

Look out for cracks

5 “Check the outside of your property regularly, particularly at this time of year,” Maclean says. Not all cracks in walls indicate subsidence; there are many reasons why they might appear.

“The typical cracks associated with subsidence come from the corners of windows and doors and will go right the way through the wall,” says Curling. “You might also notice that windows don’t open and close easily, and that doors stick and jam.”

Don’t skimp on searches

6 If you are thinking of moving, make sure that the proper searches are carried out. About 15 per cent of subsidence claims are due to previous mining activity beneath a building. Poor drainage is another culprit, so it may be worth having a survey carried out of the drainage.

Age is not all

7 Do not assume that just because a property is old it is more likely to suffer. “Older properties have shallower foundations, which does make them more vulnerable to subsidence, but they are generally built of bricks in soft lime mortar which makes them more flexible,” Curling explains.

Act fast

8 Speed is of the essence. If you notice a problem, act immediately. “The first thing you should do is to notify your insurance company,” Curling says. “Subsidence is quite a narrow sphere of surveyors’ expertise, and insurers will have specialists in this field.

Don’t panic

9 Many subsidence problems can be tackled without serious disruption. “The removal of trees is often the best solution, although this may not be possible if you live in a conservation area or if there is a tree preservation order,” says Curling. Cutting back trees may also help — although this must be done carefully and professionally, since pruning trees may also stimulate growth. “Where the ground has been very badly affected, there may be a need to underpin the house,” adds Curling. “But while this used to be massively disruptive and expensive, it is now much faster and cheaper.”

Causes

A. The most common causes of subsidence are as follows:

1. Settlement of old mine workings, often at great depth, resulting in damage to structures on the surface. These may often be a long way from the cause of the damage. Access shafts are notoriously difficult to identify as mine operators rarely kept good records of these points.

2. Damage to subsoils caused by water flowing through them. This may be from naturally occurring ground water or leaking drains and water mains. When a drain begins to leak it can soften or wash away the body of a soil and create weakness. This can result in the weight of any nearby structures causing the soil to crush, allowing the building to subside.

3. Long term consolidation of fill.

4. Decomposition and degradation of soils that contain a large organic content. Peat soils are made up of vegetable matter laid down by historic forests. When these materials are below the water table in the ground they remain relatively stable for hundreds of years. If, for any reason, the water table should become lower then the soils will be prone to drying-out or biodegrading – either of which will result in a reduction in its volume. This will cause any buildings supported by the soils to settle and crack.

5. Instability of uneven ground. When soils rest at an angle to the horizontal they can sometimes become unstable and begin to slip. This is typical of coastal cliffs and most people are aware of the type of dramatic collapses that appear on the news from time to time. In a lesser way this can happen on naturally occurring slopes and in areas where a man-made excavation has created large differences in ground levels. This may be a large excavation for a tall building or open earthworks for a major road scheme. This type of movement is both difficult and expensive to deal with.

6. Shrinkage of clay soils. Clay is a natural soil created in historic rivers by the deposition of tiny rock particles. In Great Britain and Northern Europe clays occur with an amount of water dispersed within their matrix.. Being highly impermeable to the passage of water, clays will resist the tendency to dry out and will normally maintain a consistent moisture content over many decades. If a clay dries out it can shrink. Upon rewetting it expands. This results in seasonal shrinkage and swelling which can cause cracking of nearby buildings. Tree roots spread out in search of water. Clay soils are a ready source of water that a tree can remove by suction. When trees grow in shrinkable clay soils they locally dry out the soils and can often cause subsidence if they affect the soils beneath the footings. Alternatively, if a well established tree should die then the ground in which its roots are dispersed will no longer be subject to the long term drying-out effect and as a result will begin to take up moisture from surrounding soils and from the atmosphere. This in turn will result in swelling of the soil and this is known as heave. In many respects, heave is capable of producing greater damage to a building than its counterpart, subsidence.

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Taken from www.abi.org.uk/Information/40471.doc

Subsidence –

Dealing With The Problem

It is the sight every homeowner dreads – cracks appearing in the walls of their home. But don’t fear the worst – while there has been an increase in subsidence claims in recent years, most buildings suffer minor cracking at some time so it doesn΄t mean that there is a subsidence problem.

This information sheet explains:

* What subsidence is and how it can affect a property;

* What signs may indicate there could be a problem with the property;

* What can be done to reduce the risk of subsidence; and

* How household insurers will investigate potential problems and deal with any claim.

What is subsidence?

Subsidence is the downward movement of the ground supporting the building. Particular problems arise when the movement varies from one part of the building to another.

It can be caused by:

Certain soils – Clay soils are particularly vulnerable to subsidence since they shrink and swell depending on their moisture content.

Vegetation – Trees and shrubs take moisture from soils causing them to shrink.  This is especially so during long periods of dry weather as roots extend in search of water.

Leaking Drains – Damaged drains can soften or wash away the ground beneath the foundations.

Less commonly, problems may occur where properties are built over, or close to, mine workings.

Other types of ground movement, which can result in cracking and structural damage, are:

Heave – the upward movement of the ground supporting the building.

Landslip – movement of ground down a slope.

What should you look out for?

The first obvious sign of subsidence is the appearance of cracks. However, not all cracks indicate that there is a problem. Most buildings experience cracking at some time and there is no need to be alarmed by every crack that appears.

Cracks are not uncommon in new properties and newly built extensions. They are likely to be the result of the building settling under its own weight. These usually are nothing to worry about, nor are fine cracks that often appear in newly plastered walls as they dry out. Buildings shrink and swell naturally due to changes in temperature and humidity, which can lead to minor cracks where walls and ceilings meet. These too should not normally be anything to worry about.

What should be looked out for are small, usually diagonal, cracks which suddenly appear in plaster work inside and outside bricks at weak points, such as around doors and windows, especially after long periods of dry weather. These may, but not necessarily, indicate movement in the building´s foundations. The cracks will normally be thicker than a 10p coin, and usually be wider at the top. Doors and windows may also “stick” due to the distortion of the building.

Can you do anything to reduce the risk?

Yes. Taking a few simple precautions can help reduce the risk of structural damage.

Trees and shrubs planted too close to a property are a common cause of problems. The attached table indicates the suitable planting distances of various trees from houses, garages or outbuildings. You should also consider the proximity of trees to underground drains and buildings including any belonging to neighbours.

Ensure that trees and shrubs are pruned regularly. Expert advice should be sought from an arborist to make sure they are pruned correctly. Regular general maintenance checks should be carried out around a property. Checks should be made for blocked or leaking drains; dirt and leaves cleared from gutters; and pipes checked to make sure there are no splits.

Cover provided by household insurance

A buildings insurance policy will normally cover damage caused to a property by subsidence, heave or landslip. Damage to walls, gates, fences, patios, drives and swimming pools will not usually be covered unless a home is damaged at the same time and by the same cause. The policy should set out what is and what is not covered. However, if any clarification is required, an agent or the insurer will be happy to help.

Policyholders will normally have to pay the first part of any claim – the excess. This will be detailed in your policy.

If the damage is so serious that a home cannot be lived in, most buildings, and even contents, policies will pay for the cost of comparable alternative accommodation, while the damage is being investigated and the repair work is carried out. This will be subject to a limit which is usually a percentage of the sum insured.

When should you contact your buildings insurer and what will they do?

As soon as you believe there may be a problem, you should contact your buildings insurer. A policy will normally require the insurer to be advised of any potential claim as soon as possible and, in any event, it is sensible because the sooner the problem is investigated, the quicker everything can be put right the less inconvenience will be caused.

It will first be necessary to identify the cause of the damage and what needs to be done to stop it. Once any movement has been stabilised the necessary repairs can be carried out.

Insurers really do understand and appreciate policyholders΄ concerns and will do all they can to minimise the worry and inconvenience. Insurers will also keep policyholders informed of developments at every stage.

Handling a claim

Once they are aware of the damage, the insurer may arrange for a structural engineer and other specialists to carry out detailed investigations to decide the best course of action. These experts will report back to the insurer with their recommendations and then supervise any work that needs to be done.

Alternatively, the insurer may advise the policyholder to contact a structural engineer (it may be able to provide a list of recommended firms) so that the problem can be investigated. Once again, the insurer should then know the cause of the problem and how best to deal with it.

Investigations may include digging holes to find out the type of soil, the depth and condition of the foundation and whether roots are causing a problem – this is quite normal.

It may also be necessary to monitor the width of cracks or other signs of movements over a period of time, usually for at least twelve months, so that the extent of the problem can be accurately established. Once all the information has been collected and analysed, then a plan of action can be drawn up to cure the problem.

Today, very few cases of subsidence are likely to require under-pinning – the strengthening or deepening of building foundations. Generally, further damage can be prevented by the professional removal or pruning of trees, repairing drains, or by localised repairs to brickwork. Then internal decorations will be renewed to complete the job.

If a property has suffered coal mining subsidence damage, the Coal Authority or mine owner mining in the area will be responsible for dealing with any claim. If a problem arises contact should be made with the Coal Authority (01623 427162) – as they will be able to provide information regarding the procedure involved. At the same time, the buildings insurer should also be informed.

What happens if you change your insurer?

If you change your buildings insurer and then discover a subsidence related problem, any claim may be dealt with under the Association of British Insurers΄ Domestic Subsidence Claim Handling Agreement. The agreement sets out which insurers will be responsible for handling any claim. The majority of household insurers subscribe to it. If a claim is made within the first eight weeks of the changeover, the previous insurer will deal with it. Claims between 8 weeks and 1 year will be handled by the new insurer with the cost of settlement shared equally between the two insurers.

Any claims made a year after the changeover means that the new insurer alone will deal with the claim.

Things to remember

If cracks suddenly appear, it does not necessarily mean there is a major problem.

Careful attention should be paid to the type, size and distance of any trees and shrubs from a property

While buildings insurance covers damage caused by subsidence, heave or landslip, there will normally be an excess which the policyholder will have to pay – you should check your policy to see what excess you have.

You should contact the buildings insurer as soon as you believe there is a problem. They are there to give help and guidance.

If you change insurer and a problem arises, there is an ABI Agreement that sets out which insurer will deal with the claim.

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Recommended additional reading:-

Essential reading from the FINANCIAL OMBUDSMAN Service about DISPUTES involving SUBSIDENCE = http://www.financial-ombudsman.org.uk/publications/ombudsman-news/59/59-insurance.htm

Excellent free SUBSIDENCE PDF brochure from the R.I.C.S. = http://www.rics.org/site/scripts/download_info.aspx?downloadID=177&fileID=181

Trouble with new Insurance on your purchase? Check Endsleigh IQ via Woodstock Insurance Brokers for those problem cases = http://www.endsleigh.co.uk/home/Pages/subsidence-property-insurance.aspx

Technical article via Tulane University (Prof. Stephen A. Nelson) that includes explanations of multiple causes, detailed diagrams within a “Natural Disasters” series = http://www.tulane.edu/~sanelson/geol204/subsidence.htm

END



As only a small minority of buyers have any private survey we at PROinspect are concerned for thePublic. HIPs were to have Sellers Surveys, the best thing possible for buyers, but disinformation and politics managed to knock it out of sight.

So What do you need to do – When and How?

Don’t ring a Surveyor and say “I need a survey, how much do you charge?”. This does not give the Surveyor a chance to understand what you are buying and making a recommendation on the best survey product. The Surveyor could, in many scenarios, save you many pounds if you will only take the time to listen.

It all starts with how you approach your private Surveyor………..

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What are you buying – House Bungalow Flat.

How old is it? – Victorian Modern 1930′s etc….

How big is it? – No of Bedrooms? No of reception rooms? etc….

What is its general state? – Modernised? Well presented? Derelict?

What price have you offered OR what is the Asking Price?

Where is it? – Which Town or Post Code etc….

Do you have specific plans for the home?

Do you have specific concerns about anything?

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These matters allow the Surveyor to understand YOU and what you are BUYING. Once you have agreed the survey product and a fee cost and issued an clear instruction for us to proceed we will need the following type of data from you:-

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Required Customer Information

PROinspect and our customers must communicate and agree at least the following data and terms:

1. Client name and full address (if more than one person then multiple data is needed).
2. Home, work and mobile call details of each client.
3. Preferred E-mail address of each client.
4. Full address of home to be inspected (including post code).
5. Home access method and details (typically an Estate Agents full details).
6. If a home HIP exists – the full reference number of that document in sufficient detail to allow us to download it.
7. If the client knows what survey product they need then please provide the NAME of that product OR tell us what is worrying you about the home.
8. What extras to the standard service level are needed?
9. Fee agreement – the sum, how and when it will be paid etc… We usually require full payment before we submit our Report or findings to the customer.
10. The urgency of the transaction (do you have any pre-agreed deadlines?).
11. Full details of your solicitor (including call number, name and personal e-mail address).

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PROinspect will then e-mail or mail our verification, business Terms, product scheme, Conditions plus fee Invoice.

We will contact the Agent or Home Owner and do all that is necessary to inspect the premises and to report to you. Once you have our verified Fee Quotation and Terms/Conditions, and have indicated your full agreement o our service(s), then we do everything leaving you free of the stress and worry of having to organize anything.

It really is simple – if you are looking, or live in, Southern England call me for further advice and opinion.  +44 (0)1489 896 174 or use the CONTACT FORM above. Stuart Parrett.

Builders, Specialists, Professionals and Others to help you.

Remember good advice often costs nothing and can save you a lot of money and hassle. Start the process by talking to the real Experts.

The PROinspect Listing

FOR YOUR PEACE OF MIND…….

This is a display of a wide range of recommended Contractors and Specialists perhaps needed after PROinspect have reported to you via a Building Survey etc…..or simply because you have got problems. Included is a Florist to say THANKS in the time honoured way. Good Luck.

I encourage you to contact these people and to also relate your experiences back to me so I can build high confidence they are helping clients in the right, positive and cost-effective way. (Please use the “Comments” facility at the page foot to provide FEEDBACK to me).

IF IN ANY DOUBTS OVER INSTRUCTIONS, REFER THE CONTRACTOR BACK TO ME FOR A FULLER BRIEFING.

FOR SECURITY PURPOSES PLEASE ENSURE YOU TELL THESE CONTRACTORS THAT THE REFERRAL IS VIA STUART PARRETT AT PROINSPECT CONSULTANCY.

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Firstly, let’s dispel a myth: if you ask an Estate Agent to give you a Valuation what do you get? They call them a Free Market Appraisal and some might not put that opinion in writing. Why? Because what you get is simply an opinion: it is not a professionally binding opinion and liability does not stem from that opinion (you cannot sue them).

Secondly, let’s dispel another myth: if you request a Loan Company mortgage Valuation what do you get? One – the valuation is prepared for loan purposes and the sum quoted may be lower than market value for in-house Loan Company reasons unrelated to your needs. Two – if you are buying a brand New Home the chances are that in this post-recession world the loan company will have instructed their Panel Valuer to down-value your purchase because the security offered (the new home) is in its re-sale value when it is not “new”.

Valuations can be needed for Court purposes eg: divorce settlements, Probate and Capital Gains tax purposes, Tax Planning purposes, to advise of whether alterations may be wise and economic, for sale or purchase etc……. The circumstances that surround the request may lead us to consider other market and property aspects that alter our opinions of worth.

So, what is the definition of market value?

MARKET VALUE

Unless otherwise stated any development value is to be excluded from “market value” as will any potential element of value of furnishings, removable fittings and fixtures, sales incentives of any description; portable and temporary structures will also be so excluded. The definition of “market value” is the best price reasonably obtainable on an unconditional basis for cash consideration on the date of valuation (the Report date, if not specifically stated) assuming :- a willing seller; prior to the valuation date a reasonable period for proper marketing (to agree price and terms) and for the completion of the sale has elapsed; that the state of the market, level of values and other circumstances were, on any earlier assumed date of exchange of contracts, the same as on the date of valuation; that no account of any additional bid by a purchaser with a special interest be considered. This definition is subject to change as directed by the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors.

This applies to residential property alone and for specific properties other caveats or changes may need to be introduced.

The only way to get a professional opinion of value, one where you can sue the Valuer if he/she is wrong, is if you request that report yourself. The wise purchaser does this via either a request for a private valuation or asks for a private survey that includes an opinion of market value. The most popular form of survey product can fits this description is the R.I.C.S. Homebuyer Report (for details see elsewhere on this site).

PROinspect can provide Market Valuations. We would need to inspect the property and complete market research, including a analysis of price-paid data (that is historic) and take into consideration the market and the property.

Why would you need a professional opinion of value? This depends on why you need advice and whether you agree that independent opinion is of worth. Some might say that a Loan Company valuer can provide an impartial opinion – conversely, the credit-crunch has told us that millions of mortgagees are out of pocket because of the Banks and of home buyers had taken advice from professionals outside of the Estate Agency and Loan Company then perhaps the hole they are now in wouldn’t have been so deep.

If you believe that a Sellers’ Estate Agent and your own Loan Company place your best interests over their own then you do not need PROinspect.

If you don’t believe this then use the CONTACT FORM to ask for help and advice once you believe the time is right for you. Initial advice is free so what have you got to lose?

This service was brought into PROinspect for two reasons – (1) to aid ordinary survey inspections by using available modern technology, and (2) to provide the option for bespoke thermal imaging services (explained below).

The benefits of thermographic indicative imaging during residential survey inspections:-

Thermography is now used in an ever widening range of areas. All objects above -273°C or 0 Kelvin (absolute zero) emit infra-red energy and we exploit this using our longwave IR imaging system with a view to identifying previously unidentifiable faults which would often result in costly repercussions.

• Surveys are non-invasive and non-destructive:

• The thermographic apparatus used may be the only way to seen a latent serious problem (something not capable of detection by other, conventional visual means):

• Surveys are real time and may produce fast, immediate temperature measurement and fault detection indicators:

• Surveys can be performed at a convenient time and tailored to each client’s individual requirements (but certain times of the day may be better than others, generally early morning or late evening being prime time):

• For services the resulting indicators may reduced risks of water damage and fire:

1. Damp flat roof slabs/insulation/hidden-pipes.
2. Air/heat leakages.
3. Insulation incontinuity.



Damp, Relative Humidity, Mould

Many materials (wood, plaster, decorative / paintings etc) absorb water vapour from the air. Materials will therefore absorb more moisture in high humidity situations and release moisture as the humidity lowers.

Further effects and consequences of high humidity is condensation behind plasterboard walls that can result in structural damage and can provide perfect conditions for the growth of mould and mildew (and perhaps rot).

Ideally during the winter months an office should be about 22°C with a relative humidity between 30 and 60 percent. During the summer months, an indoor temperature of about 20°C with a relative humidity (UK) between 40 to 60 percent is considered normal.

A heating ventilating and air conditioning (HVAC) system must maintain proper humidity levels inside the building to prevent mould and mildew. Maintaining positive internal building pressure and humidity levels, below 60%, is essential to ensure proper indoor air quality in buildings.

Exhausting air from rooms like toilets, bathrooms and wet-rooms without replacing it, creates a negative pressure that draws unconditioned air through exterior walls, windows and doors. As the outside air is drawn into a building by the negative pressure that is created by air movement or exhausts, the moisture in the air may condense when it comes in contact with the cooler surfaces. The condensation provides the moisture fungi requires for growth.

Thermal Building Inspections

Building inspections have become more popular since Part L of the latest (2008) building regulations recommended thermal checks on new buildings for losses.

The primary diagnostic procedure for determining the thermal performance of a building envelope is infrared thermography. It can be used to identify heating and cooling loss due to poor construction, missing or inadequate insulation and moisture intrusion.

Correcting the defects plays a significant role in increasing building efficiency and structural integrity.

Two primary mechanisms for heat loss in buildings are conduction through the walls and air leakage. Both can be identified from the surface of the building with infrared thermography.

Conductive Losses

Problems identified as conductive losses include:

1. Missing insulation, improperly installed or compressed insulation.
2. Shrinkage or settling of various insulating materials.
3. Excessive thermal bridging in joints between walls and the top and bottom plates.
4. Moisture damage to insulation and building materials.
5. Heat loss through multi-pane windows with a broken seal.
6. Leaks in water pipes.
7. Damaged heat ducts.
8. Location of or leakage in buried steam lines, water lines or underground sprinkler systems.

Air leakage is the passage of air through a building envelope, wall, window, joint, etc. Leakage to the interior is referred to as infiltration and leakage to the exterior is referred to as exfiltration. Excessive air movement significantly reduces the thermal integrity and performance of the envelope and is, therefore, a major contributor to energy consumption in a building.

In addition to energy loss caused by excessive air leakage, it can cause condensation to form within and on walls. This can create many problems; reduce insulation R-value, permanently damage insulation, and seriously degrade materials. It can rot wood, corrode metals, stain brick or concrete surfaces, and in extreme cases cause concrete to spall, bricks to separate, mortar to crumble and sections of a wall to fall jeopardizing the safety of occupants. It can corrode structural steel, re-bar, and metal hangars and bolts with very serious safety and maintenance issues. Moisture accumulation in building materials can lead to the formation of mould that may require extensive remediation.

Virtually anywhere in the building envelope where there is a joint, junction or opening, there is potential for air leakage. With the use of an infrared imager, one can identify thermal irregularities on the building envelope and the thermal pattern discerning whether the pattern indicates a problem with the insulation, air leakage or the building structure.

Flat roof membranes are the waterproof barriers between the outside elements and the interior of buildings. They come in a variety of materials and designs, and must be able to expand and contract, resist high winds and the effects of solar radiation and withstand foot traffic. It is easy to see why roofs leak.

Normally there is little or no water within a flat roof assembly. When a leak develops, water enters the assembly and, depending on the type of insulation system, is either absorbed by the insulation or runs to the cracks between the non-absorbent insulation. When water enters the roof assembly it is there for a long time, sometimes the life of the roof.

Thermal capacitance is the physical property of a material’s ability to store heat. The materials in roof assemblies have relatively low thermal capacitance, especially when compared to water. Water requires a lot of energy to raise its temperature and likewise must release a lot of energy to cool.

The physics used for thermal roof inspections is that dry roof insulation heats up and cools down faster than wet roof insulation. Infrared inspection goes beyond simply finding a leak by locating the extent of the moisture invasion of the insulation. To do this we require solar heating of a sunny day. Then at night, after the sun goes down and the roof surface begins to cool, the dry roof insulation cools faster than wet roof insulation.

*      Was it a clear sunny day?

*      Is it a clear night (for good radiation cooling)?

*      Is there little or no wind?

*      Is the roof surface dry?

*      Is the roof clear of snow, dirt and debris?

The type of insulation used on a roof will result in an infrared image that is characteristic of how that particular insulation absorbs water. Absorbent roof insulation acts similar to a sponge. The water migrates by capillary action throughout a complete roof board before it jumps to the adjacent board. This results in a checker-board thermal pattern.

Non-absorbent roof insulation creates a much different pattern when it becomes wet. The water is not absorbed and runs to the edge of the roof board. The water tends to collect at the edges of the boards resulting in a window frame pattern. Different patterns may result from other less common insulating systems.

There are many conditions that can produce thermal patterns that may look like they were created by wet insulation but are not, and others may mask the true condition of wet insulation. The ASTM specification C-1153 titled “Location of Wet Insulation in Roofing Systems Using Infrared Imaging” suggest performing verification of suspected wet insulation by core methods. The following are some examples of situations that may result in poor infrared inspections:

1. Insulation with different R-values or different absorption
2. Different internal building temperatures
3. Extra gravel or bituminous left from construction
4. Warm or cold air exhausting onto roof
5. Re-radiation of heat from south or west facing walls
6. Wind
7. Internal sources of heat or cold such as lights, heaters, and steam pipes
8. Dirt, vegetation and debris
9. Walkway pads and buried steel plates
10. Blisters, Water ponding, steam plumes and water spray

During the winter thermographers use the same process. However, winter surveys are more difficult because the temperature differences are usually less than on summer surveys. If the building is heated, the added heat flow from the building through wet insulation will help enhance the winter thermal patterns.

Moisture Detection – a key to Prevention of Mould Growth

Mould has existed in our environment long before the recent awareness of its presence in homes and businesses. The impact of mould on health is dependent upon the concentration of spores in the immediate area and the allergic effect on an individual. Potential health problems associated with mould exposure can take the form of allergic reactions or asthma.

According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, there is no practical way to eliminate mould spores in an indoor environment. The best way to control mould growth is to control moisture. Mould can begin growth in as little as 24 hours. Roof leaks and water pipe leaks are common sources of water accumulation that may cause mould growth.

Moisture present in roofs and walls can be detected with a sensitive infrared camera under the right conditions. Infrared roof inspections are performed most effectively after sunset, when the roof gives off its heat energy accumulated during the day. The heat capacity of moisture soaked roof insulation is greater than that of dry insulation. As a result, the moisture soaked roof areas appear quite clearly when performing an infrared scan.

Similarly, it is possible to detect moisture located behind interior walls with an infrared camera, under the right conditions. The temperature difference created by the presence of moisture on the inside surface of a wall will appear differently than the surrounding area.