Posts Tagged ‘Subsidence’

No, not a legal run-down on what to do or not to do. Instead, a few words of wisdom to help you ensure “your X, or other-half” does pull a fast-one on you as far your joint Home is concerned.

I often get calls along the lines “Mr Parrett? I saw your web-site and need some advice. Can you help me?” The following comments distill these calls for help into a few Rules to protect yourself :-

1. Never agree to anything you do not fully understand.
2. Always take legal opinion, if at all possible.
3. When the time comes to VALUE THE HOUSE the following may help you —
   • Do not panic when your “other half” starts quoting strange fictional things about the house eg: “you do know it has got subsidence and isn’t worth much?”. Rise above such tactics and do not respond.
   • If the Valuation is organised through Solicitors you may be asked to provide two names of valuers you would be happy to use. Find two local Chartered Surveyors who specialise in Valuations (call the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors in London if you are stuck). I prefer smaller firms to the larger ones. The more local the better. Your legal team will negotiate with your partners legal guys until a mutually acceptable Valer is agreed.
   • If I was one of these Valuers I would pre-quote 150% of my normal Valuation fee rates and charge each party 75% of that rate (you each save 25% of a normal Valuation fee).
   • Payment would be expected “up front” as in any dispute situation.
   • If you can be on-site when the Valuer inspects this is to be preferred – in case questions arise.
   • If Solicitors are not involved then attempt to get written agreement from your partner that a particular Valuer can be instructed jointly. You would need to get fee quotes and do not forget to tell each Valuer the purpose of the Valuation (“Matrimonial Proceedings” is the terminology used and include in your instructions that it is a joint instruction and ask if two Invoices can be generated – one for each party).
   • Be friendly to the Valuer and have copies of any guarantees, plans, warranties, boiler service plan papers etc…. ready when he or she arrives.

Often when I am on-site, and usually when only one party is present (not both husband and wife), comments are made that could be construed as “attempting to get at me”. I am immune to such attempts and would say that at the human level they can easily go against the person making them. This shows that whoever you instruct must be of strong character and of robust constitution. This is yet another reason why it is vital for you to actually speak to the Valuer who is to inspect your home (and not a secretary or other such Agent or middleman).

The “good Valuer” will only include Report comment if he or she is convinced it is factual and important. However, where some doubt exists, and if the information is vital or may affect the tone of the Valuation, the information may be included but with a reference as to where it came from and why anybody reading the Report must strictly verify the information before any agreement is reached.

Valuations for Divorce or Matrimonial Proceedings are not for wimps: make sure you don’t use one.

SERVICE LEVEL CHANGES:

PROinspect are proud to announce that acting on customer feedback we have changed to way we deliver part of your Property Survey advice. Let me explain …….

If a client asks us to act for them, typically as a Consultant Surveyor upon a house purchase, we inspect-and-advise that client within a written report.

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Change 1 – we will ‘report” to that client by electronic means if at all possible.

Change 2 – if, for example, the main walls suffer from a problematic damp proof course we report the facts, the damage and the course of action that client needs to take and this in contained within our REPORT. In future we will also refer that client to our EXTENDED ADVICE “TAB” at our web-site. This area of our web-site provides the client with contextual background information and opinion plus links to others’ web-sites. By this method the client obtains a more balanced service from us, obtain a greater understanding of the defects and solutions and will therefore be better able to prioritise further actions and repairs.

Change 3 – rather than make that data confidential and only available to paying customers we have separated out the specific property data evidence and photographs etc…. but the scenario advice is freely available to any visitor to our web-site. A non-client web-reader will see advice and opinion but will not benefit from any individual property survey report, effect on premises value, mortgagability and saleability etc..

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PROinspect believe this is the way forward and is another way whereby we demonstrate our market leader, Expert status.

We still have some work to do to complete this change: we have currently scheduled the following Subject HEADINGS -

• CONDENSATION
• RISING DAMPNESS
• SUBSIDENCE
• ROOFING
• FLOOD RELIEF ISSUES
• INAPPROPRIATE WORKS
• CONSERVATION ISSUES

When we have completed all aspects of these subjects we may look to include others: IF YOU COULD HELP and submit such technical articles (on your own related Specialism) to augment this series, PROinspect would love to hear from you.

We are also looking to reciprocate business and are looking for certain types of trades and new contacts: EG: we need (1) Heating Contractors prepared to act quickly to check and test house boilers/systems in order for house price negotiations to continue, (2) Contractor underpinning and above-ground-wall-repair Specialists, (3) Chimney Sweeps, (4) Jobbing Contractors for basic maintenance repairs, (5) Flat Roof specialists, (6) Lime-Mortar repair specialists, (7) Period Timber Frame repair specialists (8) Asbestos diagnosis and testing plus reporting specialists, (9) etc………..

WE HAVE A PASSION FOR RESIDENTIAL BUILDING ISSUES, CAN YOU HELP US HELP OUR CLIENTS?

Looking for prime advice? I invite you to contact me for free further opinion and advice. Either use the CONTACT FORM above or call me on +44 (0)1489 896 174. Stuart Parrett.

SUBSIDENCE – YOUR WORST NIGHTMARE?

Cracks appearing? Floors are “on a slope”? Doors and windows sticking?

Thinking of contacting your Insurers?

Building Insurers Consultant says “it’s nothing bad” but you think…..?…..

Need to know if you are adequately insured?

This subject is one of the most problematic and stressful a home owner could face. PROinspect believe Insurers do not always play fair with home owners and often complete remedial works that do not go far enough to restore the investment value of the customers home – stigma attaches to the home and its value can often suffer, especially in bad markets such as we are experiencing now and perhaps for a few years to come.

PROinspect would quickly state that if you have concerns about your home you do need to get a Professional in if only for initial advice and a tactics meeting before Insurers are notified. Do not place blind trust in an Insurance Company. This recommendation flies in the face of much conventional wisdom but, sadly, it is our experience that some Insurers don’t always play fair and therefore a little pre-knowledge and coaching from us can be worth its weight in gold, in some scenarios. At present, as we come out of summer 2010 we are experiencing a lot of Conservatory movement problems and this seems to be a whole new area of problems in itself.

Subsidence is not always defined in Insurance Policies and so the below comments have been brought together to begin to de-mystify this whole subject.

Before we move on let me outline a real 2010 experience of Insurers —- your home is in one of the worst subsidence districts around (pure highly shrinkable clay and near the top of a hillside with trees all around) – you buy the home on the strength of a Structural Engineers Report “sold” with the house (report 6 months old) that outline past movement that was now stable and no works were needed. As you extend the home 12 months later cracks appear and the same Engineer reports active subsidence. You put an Insurance claim in but the Engineer Loss Adjuster says the movement has ceased and no works are needed. You do not believe the Loss Adjuster and get an further, independent Engineer in who says the movement is active. The damage is monitored over the next 18 months and found to be passive and non-progressive. In the meantime it has been a dry year and within 6 months the cracking starts again. Now, irrespective of all the Engineer opinion, this home is unsaleable. Patently intermittent subsidence is happening because of trees and clay. Underpinning works are needed: the home owner is under a duty to declare the scenario to potential buyers: nobody but a cash purchaser would be able to buy this and they would only do this at a heavily discounted price. This home is now blighted because Insurers cannot see the bigger picture.

REMEMBER – we have the experience and knowledge that could be the difference you are looking for before you commit to a Purchase or an Insurance Claim. If you are considering homes “on our geographic patch in central, southern England, then use the CONTACT FORM now to contact me to “pick my brains”. I may just be able to help you avoid an expensive mistake.

Enjoy……. (NB: PROinspect do not hold with all opinions expressed below – proceed at your own risk) ……….

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What is the difference between “settlement” and “subsidence”?

Settlement usually occurs in new or relatively new buildings. They are very heavy and cause the ground to compact, but this normally stops after a short while. Additionally, most buildings are constructed in a variety of materials, all of which need to settle down and have different shrinkage rates. It is not unusual for a builder’s contract to require them to come back in six months to make good those settlement cracks that have appeared, for instance, between the walls and ceilings. In older buildings of a more flexible construction, cracks can appear in the summer that close up in the winter when the materials absorb moisture. These are known as “summer cracks” and are usually non-serious.

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Taken from The Times On-Line on September 18, 2009

Ten ways to prevent subsidence at home

Don’t panic: follow our ten steps to avoid the cracks

Paula Hawkins

Dealing with cracks

1 A rise in the number of subsidence claims in the South East might not sound positive, but it could indicate an improvement in the property market. As Neil Curling, senior structural claims manager at Halifax Home Insurance, notes: “People don’t tend to notice the minor signs of subsidence until a surveyor looks at a property on behalf of a potential buyer.” Subsidence does not necessarily stop a sale.

Choose your trees

2 Tailor your trees to the size of your garden. “Most subsidence claims are due to shrinking clay soils and this is exaggerated by the moisture demands of tall trees,” says Curling. Willow trees are the worst; plant them at least 40m from your home. Poplars, oaks, horse chestnuts and planes should be planted 20 to 30m away. If you have a small garden, opt for a yew tree or a magnolia.

Renovate carefully

3 The trend towards improving your property rather than moving has put more houses at risk of subsidence. “Many DIY conservatories are being built without sufficiently deep foundations,” says Jill Maclean, technical manager at Lloyds TSB Insurance. The insurer found that 84 per cent of people working on their homes do not have blueprints drawn up, while just a third follow building regulations.

Take care of your drains

4 “Have drains tested regularly for root infestations and leaks,” says Maclean. Nylon sleeves can be used to repair drains without digging up and replacing all the pipes.

Look out for cracks

5 “Check the outside of your property regularly, particularly at this time of year,” Maclean says. Not all cracks in walls indicate subsidence; there are many reasons why they might appear.

“The typical cracks associated with subsidence come from the corners of windows and doors and will go right the way through the wall,” says Curling. “You might also notice that windows don’t open and close easily, and that doors stick and jam.”

Don’t skimp on searches

6 If you are thinking of moving, make sure that the proper searches are carried out. About 15 per cent of subsidence claims are due to previous mining activity beneath a building. Poor drainage is another culprit, so it may be worth having a survey carried out of the drainage.

Age is not all

7 Do not assume that just because a property is old it is more likely to suffer. “Older properties have shallower foundations, which does make them more vulnerable to subsidence, but they are generally built of bricks in soft lime mortar which makes them more flexible,” Curling explains.

Act fast

8 Speed is of the essence. If you notice a problem, act immediately. “The first thing you should do is to notify your insurance company,” Curling says. “Subsidence is quite a narrow sphere of surveyors’ expertise, and insurers will have specialists in this field.

Don’t panic

9 Many subsidence problems can be tackled without serious disruption. “The removal of trees is often the best solution, although this may not be possible if you live in a conservation area or if there is a tree preservation order,” says Curling. Cutting back trees may also help — although this must be done carefully and professionally, since pruning trees may also stimulate growth. “Where the ground has been very badly affected, there may be a need to underpin the house,” adds Curling. “But while this used to be massively disruptive and expensive, it is now much faster and cheaper.”

Causes

A. The most common causes of subsidence are as follows:

1. Settlement of old mine workings, often at great depth, resulting in damage to structures on the surface. These may often be a long way from the cause of the damage. Access shafts are notoriously difficult to identify as mine operators rarely kept good records of these points.

2. Damage to subsoils caused by water flowing through them. This may be from naturally occurring ground water or leaking drains and water mains. When a drain begins to leak it can soften or wash away the body of a soil and create weakness. This can result in the weight of any nearby structures causing the soil to crush, allowing the building to subside.

3. Long term consolidation of fill.

4. Decomposition and degradation of soils that contain a large organic content. Peat soils are made up of vegetable matter laid down by historic forests. When these materials are below the water table in the ground they remain relatively stable for hundreds of years. If, for any reason, the water table should become lower then the soils will be prone to drying-out or biodegrading – either of which will result in a reduction in its volume. This will cause any buildings supported by the soils to settle and crack.

5. Instability of uneven ground. When soils rest at an angle to the horizontal they can sometimes become unstable and begin to slip. This is typical of coastal cliffs and most people are aware of the type of dramatic collapses that appear on the news from time to time. In a lesser way this can happen on naturally occurring slopes and in areas where a man-made excavation has created large differences in ground levels. This may be a large excavation for a tall building or open earthworks for a major road scheme. This type of movement is both difficult and expensive to deal with.

6. Shrinkage of clay soils. Clay is a natural soil created in historic rivers by the deposition of tiny rock particles. In Great Britain and Northern Europe clays occur with an amount of water dispersed within their matrix.. Being highly impermeable to the passage of water, clays will resist the tendency to dry out and will normally maintain a consistent moisture content over many decades. If a clay dries out it can shrink. Upon rewetting it expands. This results in seasonal shrinkage and swelling which can cause cracking of nearby buildings. Tree roots spread out in search of water. Clay soils are a ready source of water that a tree can remove by suction. When trees grow in shrinkable clay soils they locally dry out the soils and can often cause subsidence if they affect the soils beneath the footings. Alternatively, if a well established tree should die then the ground in which its roots are dispersed will no longer be subject to the long term drying-out effect and as a result will begin to take up moisture from surrounding soils and from the atmosphere. This in turn will result in swelling of the soil and this is known as heave. In many respects, heave is capable of producing greater damage to a building than its counterpart, subsidence.

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Taken from www.abi.org.uk/Information/40471.doc

Subsidence –

Dealing With The Problem

It is the sight every homeowner dreads – cracks appearing in the walls of their home. But don’t fear the worst – while there has been an increase in subsidence claims in recent years, most buildings suffer minor cracking at some time so it doesn΄t mean that there is a subsidence problem.

This information sheet explains:

* What subsidence is and how it can affect a property;

* What signs may indicate there could be a problem with the property;

* What can be done to reduce the risk of subsidence; and

* How household insurers will investigate potential problems and deal with any claim.

What is subsidence?

Subsidence is the downward movement of the ground supporting the building. Particular problems arise when the movement varies from one part of the building to another.

It can be caused by:

Certain soils – Clay soils are particularly vulnerable to subsidence since they shrink and swell depending on their moisture content.

Vegetation – Trees and shrubs take moisture from soils causing them to shrink.  This is especially so during long periods of dry weather as roots extend in search of water.

Leaking Drains – Damaged drains can soften or wash away the ground beneath the foundations.

Less commonly, problems may occur where properties are built over, or close to, mine workings.

Other types of ground movement, which can result in cracking and structural damage, are:

Heave – the upward movement of the ground supporting the building.

Landslip – movement of ground down a slope.

What should you look out for?

The first obvious sign of subsidence is the appearance of cracks. However, not all cracks indicate that there is a problem. Most buildings experience cracking at some time and there is no need to be alarmed by every crack that appears.

Cracks are not uncommon in new properties and newly built extensions. They are likely to be the result of the building settling under its own weight. These usually are nothing to worry about, nor are fine cracks that often appear in newly plastered walls as they dry out. Buildings shrink and swell naturally due to changes in temperature and humidity, which can lead to minor cracks where walls and ceilings meet. These too should not normally be anything to worry about.

What should be looked out for are small, usually diagonal, cracks which suddenly appear in plaster work inside and outside bricks at weak points, such as around doors and windows, especially after long periods of dry weather. These may, but not necessarily, indicate movement in the building´s foundations. The cracks will normally be thicker than a 10p coin, and usually be wider at the top. Doors and windows may also “stick” due to the distortion of the building.

Can you do anything to reduce the risk?

Yes. Taking a few simple precautions can help reduce the risk of structural damage.

Trees and shrubs planted too close to a property are a common cause of problems. The attached table indicates the suitable planting distances of various trees from houses, garages or outbuildings. You should also consider the proximity of trees to underground drains and buildings including any belonging to neighbours.

Ensure that trees and shrubs are pruned regularly. Expert advice should be sought from an arborist to make sure they are pruned correctly. Regular general maintenance checks should be carried out around a property. Checks should be made for blocked or leaking drains; dirt and leaves cleared from gutters; and pipes checked to make sure there are no splits.

Cover provided by household insurance

A buildings insurance policy will normally cover damage caused to a property by subsidence, heave or landslip. Damage to walls, gates, fences, patios, drives and swimming pools will not usually be covered unless a home is damaged at the same time and by the same cause. The policy should set out what is and what is not covered. However, if any clarification is required, an agent or the insurer will be happy to help.

Policyholders will normally have to pay the first part of any claim – the excess. This will be detailed in your policy.

If the damage is so serious that a home cannot be lived in, most buildings, and even contents, policies will pay for the cost of comparable alternative accommodation, while the damage is being investigated and the repair work is carried out. This will be subject to a limit which is usually a percentage of the sum insured.

When should you contact your buildings insurer and what will they do?

As soon as you believe there may be a problem, you should contact your buildings insurer. A policy will normally require the insurer to be advised of any potential claim as soon as possible and, in any event, it is sensible because the sooner the problem is investigated, the quicker everything can be put right the less inconvenience will be caused.

It will first be necessary to identify the cause of the damage and what needs to be done to stop it. Once any movement has been stabilised the necessary repairs can be carried out.

Insurers really do understand and appreciate policyholders΄ concerns and will do all they can to minimise the worry and inconvenience. Insurers will also keep policyholders informed of developments at every stage.

Handling a claim

Once they are aware of the damage, the insurer may arrange for a structural engineer and other specialists to carry out detailed investigations to decide the best course of action. These experts will report back to the insurer with their recommendations and then supervise any work that needs to be done.

Alternatively, the insurer may advise the policyholder to contact a structural engineer (it may be able to provide a list of recommended firms) so that the problem can be investigated. Once again, the insurer should then know the cause of the problem and how best to deal with it.

Investigations may include digging holes to find out the type of soil, the depth and condition of the foundation and whether roots are causing a problem – this is quite normal.

It may also be necessary to monitor the width of cracks or other signs of movements over a period of time, usually for at least twelve months, so that the extent of the problem can be accurately established. Once all the information has been collected and analysed, then a plan of action can be drawn up to cure the problem.

Today, very few cases of subsidence are likely to require under-pinning – the strengthening or deepening of building foundations. Generally, further damage can be prevented by the professional removal or pruning of trees, repairing drains, or by localised repairs to brickwork. Then internal decorations will be renewed to complete the job.

If a property has suffered coal mining subsidence damage, the Coal Authority or mine owner mining in the area will be responsible for dealing with any claim. If a problem arises contact should be made with the Coal Authority (01623 427162) – as they will be able to provide information regarding the procedure involved. At the same time, the buildings insurer should also be informed.

What happens if you change your insurer?

If you change your buildings insurer and then discover a subsidence related problem, any claim may be dealt with under the Association of British Insurers΄ Domestic Subsidence Claim Handling Agreement. The agreement sets out which insurers will be responsible for handling any claim. The majority of household insurers subscribe to it. If a claim is made within the first eight weeks of the changeover, the previous insurer will deal with it. Claims between 8 weeks and 1 year will be handled by the new insurer with the cost of settlement shared equally between the two insurers.

Any claims made a year after the changeover means that the new insurer alone will deal with the claim.

Things to remember

If cracks suddenly appear, it does not necessarily mean there is a major problem.

Careful attention should be paid to the type, size and distance of any trees and shrubs from a property

While buildings insurance covers damage caused by subsidence, heave or landslip, there will normally be an excess which the policyholder will have to pay – you should check your policy to see what excess you have.

You should contact the buildings insurer as soon as you believe there is a problem. They are there to give help and guidance.

If you change insurer and a problem arises, there is an ABI Agreement that sets out which insurer will deal with the claim.

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Recommended additional reading:-

Essential reading from the FINANCIAL OMBUDSMAN Service about DISPUTES involving SUBSIDENCE = http://www.financial-ombudsman.org.uk/publications/ombudsman-news/59/59-insurance.htm

Excellent free SUBSIDENCE PDF brochure from the R.I.C.S. = http://www.rics.org/site/scripts/download_info.aspx?downloadID=177&fileID=181

Trouble with new Insurance on your purchase? Check Endsleigh IQ via Woodstock Insurance Brokers for those problem cases = http://www.endsleigh.co.uk/home/Pages/subsidence-property-insurance.aspx

Technical article via Tulane University (Prof. Stephen A. Nelson) that includes explanations of multiple causes, detailed diagrams within a “Natural Disasters” series = http://www.tulane.edu/~sanelson/geol204/subsidence.htm

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click on the links for professional advice on…

• CONDENSATION
• RISING DAMPNESS
• SUBSIDENCE
• ROOFING – LEAKS
• FLOOD RELIEF ISSUES
• INAPPROPRIATE IMPROVEMENTS
• CONSERVATION & PERIOD BUILDINGS

If you think you can help – submit comments but we do reserve the right to adapt any material submitted to us to publicise within this site. Do not submit unless you agree to this caveat/term.

If you can add to these articles PROinspect would welcome your views.

Is it worth surveying a brand new home?

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I complete many surveys for Building Companies; Part Exchange cases mainly. Often I am asked by a home owner “Should I have a survey on a brand new home? Would it be worth it?”.

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This is one of the hardest questions to answer. Yes? No? Maybe?

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The way I handle such a question is to first ask why they are asking – often a clue develops in that conversation. Others handle this differently and I so-called SNAGGING REPORTS that say that a door is non-compliant due to some obscure Regulation breach and that it has a small scratch by one hinge etc….

Has a solicitor advised a report? Has what I have been doing in their own/current second-hand (old) home frightened them into action? Have they been watching too much TV? Have they had a Lender Valuation report copy and something has upset them?

Often potential purchasers see the Environmental Report and are frighten so much that they google Surveyors and ring to get free advice on that report – this is common.

Sometimes purchasers see something closeby to their new home, eg: an electrical sub-station, and ask if they could get cancer if they moved in – I am not joking!

Sometimes purchasers see that the local sub-soils are predominantly of shrinkable clay and ask me to complete a full Building Survey (on a new home) to ensure them that subsidence is not affecting their potential purchase.

I suppose that what drives many of these types of comment is the fact that purchasers often feel out of their depth: they need and seek re-assurance and asking for the most expensive form of survey fulfills that inner need.

In some cases they ask for a full building survey but when I ask if they also require a market valuation they say “no – I have had a Lenders Report and they say the price is ok”, or they say “I don’t need a Rebuild Cost Assessment because I have insured it for the purchase price”! Rational?

So, how do I answer this question – Is a new home survey really worth it?

First – discover why they are asking. What drives the request? MOTIVATION?

Second – ask what type of home it is and where it is; what is its value? QUALITY? SCALE?

Third – ask at what stage of construction is it at? PRACTICALITIES?

My answer then falls into place.

If it is part built then I report that to ensure a good build-quality they could employ me to check, weekly, during the remaining build-period and to then snag and de-snag the final structure. Obviously this is expensive but would deliver the best build quality and finish possible.

I often refer to the fact that defects often need time to manifest themselves: a missing internal door lintel may not show any distress until months or even years later. A survey after snagging would probably not reveal that problem or risk. This is not negligence.

Is performance of a snagging list the best form of survey? I have seen “specialist contractor” snagging reports and they stagger me. They have merit but are usually filled up with comments such as “the top edge of the bedroom door is not finished in accordance with the British Internal Joinery Association Code of Practice No XYZ/123 and the fire-stop is 1mm too narrow to door head corner area etc….

The surveyor may be right in making such comments but the effect of his/her remarks is generally inconsequential in terms of reduced/increased fire risks. The fact is that if you buy a new car, it is not perfect and it will de-value immediately. The same is true of housing.

We are rapidly becoming American’ised and expect perfection and he-who-shouts-loudest often can succeed in getting works done because of such snagging reports. The “reasonableness test” of whether something not right is actually “wrong” is a moving target depending on circumstances:-

Referring to a part of the building element –

• Does it fulfill its designed performance?
• Has it been installed/built correctly?
• Will it be liable to age more rapidly?
• Does it look reasonable?
• Is it safe?
• Can it be repaired without disproportionate cost?
• Does the problem affect value or saleability? Etc…….

A case can be made to say that some “defects” do not need to be rectified. All things are in a state of imperfection and so why change them? A reason must exist.

My own approach is one of common-sense: is a repair needed? My thought processes will be influenced by the calibre and quality of the building, its weather exposure and if a problem affects value and saleability. My actions on site should not reflect the whims of my client.

“Do you need a survey” also depends on the reputation of the Developer: if they have a good after-sales regime then you can expect to rely upon that service, as well as the limited cover provided by the NHBC 10 or 15 year insurance policy on the home.

So – is a new home survey worth it? Well, yes. Yes, but the type of inspection(s) or report are open to opinion and that is determined by budgetary constraints and personal attitudes. Some clients say “as detailed as possible so I can screw the builder, please”.

So, I DO FIND IT DIFFICULT TO ANSWER THIS QUESTION. I do not like to see clients pay good fee money for less-than-practical-reports and so a certain definition of terms is always needed so I can define the right survey product for any particular client. Any mis-match of expectations will inevitably result in hassle for all parties concerned.

Once (years ago) a repeat client of mine asked for a “full survey” on a new home: when I began my questioning it transpired that the client had a very inflated opinion of the quality of her purchase and the builders ability to set right all faults. In that particular instance I decided to not quote or act for the client. Ducking out? Perhaps I did, but perhaps somebody else didn’t and I hope the client got what she wanted but, to remain professional, I do not report “to order”.

I consider the above a truly professional stance; others may say differently but I like to think my stance is both modern and appropriate to today. I would like to hear others’ views on this conundrum – got a view?

At the end of the day do you think it is wise to spend a massive sum and not take true, independent opinion on whether faults or defects exist? Talk to me BEFORE you let anybody else convince  you otherwise. Stuart Parrett +44 (0)1489 896 174 or use the CONTACT FORM above.

NEED ADVICE?

Try the SEARCH Box facility (below, left), click on an Article Heading (below, left) or simply read on….

• BUILDING SURVEYS with or without VALUATION advice
• HOME VALUATIONS by an RICS Registered Valuer
  
• HOMEBUYER REPORTS or SELLER SURVEYS
• AUCTION or QUICK-WALK-THROUGH Appraisals
  
• Update your BUILDING INSURANCE SUM INSURED
• Is DAMP REALLY DAMP or actually CONDENSATION as a result of your lifestyle?
• Is that CRACK the beginnings of SUBSIDENCE?
• Divorce or Negligence Court-Compliant EXPERT WITNESS Reports/Valuations.

Hello, I’m Stuart Parrett. I am a truly independent, knowledgeable and experienced Chartered Surveyor and housing specialist. I am in the PEOPLE and HOMES Business where Information Discovery is all important.

I survey homes for faults and worth/value but it is not what I do but HOW that separates PROinspect from competitor surveyors.

THE HOUSE DOCTOR IS IN:

HOW CAN I HELP YOU?

SOMETHING of VALUE for you —-

1-  Do you have a SEPTIC TANK DRAINAGE system?

NEW Environmental Permitting Regulations cover even old septic tanks, which may previously have escaped regulation, but are now controlled and must be formally registered with the Environment Agency by 1^st January 2012. Failure to register is a criminal offense. Click this link PrivateDrainageChanges2012 for an Environment Agency Brochure that explains all.

2-  CONDENSATION SEASON IS UPON US – have you looked in the back of the wardrobe recently or in “that corner”?

Cold = drop in dew point = cold surfaces will attract condensate: Quick Fix – create airflows and reduce the amount of vapour in the air. Longer Term Fix = Raise the wall temperature by lining it with XXXX; properly kill off mould spores; introduce sensors that apply venting or temperature changes to the environment. Simple.

What often works is opening the window for as long as possible during and after sleeping/baths/showers/cooking (this removes water vapour that then cannot condense on your clothes and walls). You loose heat during this process and so you need to learn how to achieve these goals intelligently without icicles forming on your nose.

For more information on me, my CV etc… – click here and scroll down. Alternatively, look me in the eye by watching a short VIDEO – CLICK HERE. TheHouseSurveyor at YouTube will also deliver several important messages for those looking to purchase or those you wish to become Residential Surveyors and/or Valuers.

Those who have kindly provided testimonials for me say that I can be considered a safe pair of hands, somebody who is a real communicator and a provider of detailed and robust opinions.

Good reasons for using me in the central south coast area include that I take the time to listen to you and then help you make the right choice of survey product and have it completed at the right time. After this I genuinely communicate with you and don’t simply mail a report to you and that is it. No, I am always available for questions and meetings because you need to be re-assured your purchase is both a wise investment and you are not buying a problem.

I protect the biggest investment you’ll ever make in your life – your home – and I work with you every step of the way…..

I’ve brought together a lot of valuable information to help you organise property problems, alterations, private surveys and other services surrounding ownership, maintenance, sales, purchases and Expert Witness Reports.

CALL ME for a free chat and advice on 078 3636 3040 —

• THE GOLDEN RULES OF SELF-PROTECTION DURING HOME BUYING =

1. When your “offer” has been accepted make sure you already have a loan deal secured in principle
2. Make sure you DO NOT agree to a combined Loan Valuation and Private Survey
3. Actually speak to a Surveyor (PROinspect down south) – do not accept an Assistant or a Secretary
4. Find out your Survey Product options, fee costs and the manner in dealing with any special concerns you have
5. Do not fall for quick deals or “linked” services often packaged by costly middlemen Agencies.

STUART PARRETT

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Browse the site and when you’re ready to ask for advice give me a call or fill in the Form on the right. To get the best out of us you need to be briefed as to your options, survey costs and a lot more. As a starting point be as specific as you can as to what you need from us – use the CONTACT FORM (top right on your screen): EG: Detached house – perhaps 50 years old – £400,000 agreed – Building Survey with Valuation needed – being sold by XXX Estate Agents.

PROinspect are led by Stuart Parrett who has an unrivalled pedigree as a specialist Home Surveyor of over 35 years Hampshire experience.

If you wish to read even more of my views on a host of house and survey matters go to ezinearticles.com by clicking of the above icon. Or follow me at Twitter (@SurveyAuthority).